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    • 专利摘要:
    The invention relates to a method for treating keratinous fibers, which comprises the application of a composition comprising: (a) one or more alkoxysilanes with solubilizing function (s) of formula R1Si (OR2) z (R3) x (OH) y, and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers, (b) one or more alkylalkoxysilanes of formula (R4) mSi (OR5) n and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers, and (c) water in an amount of greater than 30% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. It also relates to a composition comprising components (a), (b), (c) and (d) one or more thickeners.
    公开号:FR3044902A1
    申请号:FR1562328
    申请日:2015-12-14
    公开日:2017-06-16
    发明作者:Henri Samain；Nicolas Daubresse；Julien Cabourg
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    Process for treating keratinous fibers using an aqueous composition comprising a combination of particular alkoxysilanes
    The present invention relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular hair, using a composition comprising a combination of particular alkoxysilanes, and at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of water. It also relates to a composition comprising a combination of particular alkoxysilanes, at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of water, and at least one thickening agent and its use for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular for shaping and / or conditioning the hair.
    In the field of the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers, and better hair, their shaping is usually obtained by the use of polymer-based compositions, which allows after drying to create a cohesive and rigid material, which binds in particular the hair between them in the form of meshes.
    The ease of implementation and the quality of maintenance obtained have ensured the success of lakes, gels and foams that massively use such polymers.
    However, the polymers also have defects that affect the technical qualities of the products: they can be sticky to the use or the process of elimination, give a rough touch to the hair, create residues during brushing or simply when passing hands in the hair.
    In addition, the systems used for shaping are generally not very resistant to mechanical stress as humidity. It must either apply a significant amount, thereby increasing the aforementioned problems, or reapply the product and hair after a few hours.
    Finally, it is not known at the same time to provide care, let alone a sustainable care and even less a durable repair with these technologies.
    To overcome the defects of the polymers, other systems have been tested, and in particular the sol-gel technology, mainly based on alkoxysilane derivatives. Thus, the use of alkoxysilanes comprising an amino group, combined with acidic agents has been described in the patent application FR 2 783 164 for the shaping and care of the hair.
    Uses of soluble alkoxysilane alone or in combination with a silicone or a cationic polymer are known from EP 1 216 022, FR 2 910 275 and FR 2 910 276, respectively, for imparting styling and care to the hair.
    Particular alkyl chain alkoxysilanes have also been described as agents for the modification of the shape of the hair and as care agents, such as methyltriethoxysilane in WO 2007/032314 and EP 1 736 139, or octyltriethoxysilane, in hair care compositions, optionally combined with a second silane such as aminopropyltriethoxysilane, for example in the application FR 2 966 356.
    The hydrolysis product of methyltriethoxysilane is also referenced INCI under the name of methylsilanetriol or silanetriol and is used at low concentration in many cosmetic preparations.
    However, the use of these systems above has not heretofore made it possible to combine good qualities of use during application, good hair styling performance that is sustainable, with performance of particular care in terms of disentangling, especially on damp hair, softness or regular touch of hair from root to tip (smoothing), especially on dried hair.
    In addition, from a concentration of the order of 1% by weight in aqueous medium, significant instability problems arise for compositions based on most alkoxysilanes, in particular for methyltriethoxysilane: aqueous solutions this silane, and more generally silanetriol in fact quickly precipitates. In addition, a low concentration of alkoxysilane does not allow to obtain satisfactory fixing performance.
    To overcome this disadvantage in particular, the document EPI 736 139 thus proposes to prepare the cosmetic compositions shortly before use, by a first step of hydrolyzing the alkoxy silanol functions, these groups then being able to condense to form insoluble materials which is not very much practical for the user and may result in a lack of reproducibility of the effects.
    It is therefore particularly advantageous to obtain systems based on stable alkoxysilanes, sufficiently concentrated to be effective both for shaping and for the care of the hair. Stable compositions comprising alkoxysilanes are described in French Patent Applications Nos. 3,004,932 and 3,004,933, but they comprise low concentrations of water, namely less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In addition, they are used as nail polish and when applied as a capillary, they have a sticky character.
    There is therefore a need to develop styling and hair care compositions that overcomes the disadvantages mentioned above.
    The applicant has now discovered that the joint use of at least two different particular alkoxysilanes in a composition containing at least 30% by weight of water, and possibly at least one thickening agent, makes it possible to obtain a composition that is stable over time. , and which helps in styling the hair, for example during a setting, the formation of highlights, or a brushing, with good resistance to mechanical stresses or exposure to moisture, while by having a conditioning power, especially in terms of softness and smooth feel, noticeable during application, once the dried product and hair shaped. This care effect is also noticeable after the removal of the product by brushing, or even during the following treatments applied to the hair, and especially during subsequent shampoos.
    Moreover, the compositions according to the invention are homogeneous, that is to say that they do not present a precipitate.
    They may be in monophasic or multiphasic form, such as, for example, biphasic systems (visually distinct liquid phases), or emulsions.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stable in time" means that the visual appearance and the viscosity of the compositions do not change, or substantially not (variation generally less than 10% with respect to the viscosity at T0), over time under standard storage conditions, for example during the month or two months after their manufacture, at 4 ° C, at room temperature (20-25 ° C) and at 45 ° C. It is also understood that the performance obtained does not change or not substantially during the storage of the formulas.
    The method implementing the composition makes it possible to have results of shaping and care of the identical hair the day after the manufacture of the composition and several months after its manufacture.
    This composition allows, after its application and formatting, unlike traditional systems, to obtain hair that is not rough, neither sticky nor fat. They are fixed and soft to the touch. Moreover, the repeated application of the compositions leads to an increase in the level of care of the hair, a gain, if any, in mass and tone for hair judged to be too fine, without undesirable effects such as overaccumulation of product and difficulty to unravel. The strains obtained can be stiff but can be affected without loss of shape, or appearance of dandruff or white residues in the hair. Elimination of the majority of the product is obtained simply during a first shampoo, but it can also remain an effect over time, of the care type, especially in terms of wet or dry disentangling, discipline and smooth touch, still noticeable after a few shampoos.
    In addition, it makes it possible to improve the durability of the effects of colorations with shampoos. The subject of the invention is therefore a process for treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair, and more particularly for shaping and / or conditioning the hair, which comprises applying a composition comprising: (a) a or several alkoxysilanes with solubilizing function (s) of the following formula (I), and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers:
    RiSi (OR2) z (R3) x (OH) y (I) in which:
    R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted by one or more groups chosen from the groups: amine NH 2 or NHR, R being an alkyl group; C 1 -C 20, preferably C 1 -C 6 optionally substituted with a group having a silicon atom, a C 3 -C 40 cycloalkyl group or a C 6 -C 30 aromatic, hydroxy, thiol, aryl or aryloxy group substituted by a amino group or with a C1-C4 aminoalkyl group;
    R 1 capable of being interrupted by a heteroatom such as O, S, NH, or a carbonyl group (CO), R 2 and R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z + x + y = 3, (b) one or more alkylalkoxysilanes of following formula (III), and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers: (R4) mSi (OR5) - (III) in which: R4 and R5 each represent, independently of one another, a C1-C6 alkyl, better still C1-4, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl, preferably methyl, ethyl and n-propyl, n is from 1 to 3, m is from 1 to 3, provided that m + n = 4, and (c) water in an amount greater than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The present invention also relates to a composition comprising: (a) one or more alkoxysilanes with solubilizing function (s) of the following formula (I), and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers:
    RiSi (OR2) z (R3) x (OH) y (I) in which:
    R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with one or more groups chosen from the groups: amine NH 2 or NHR, R being a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group; -C 20, preferably C 1 -C 6 optionally substituted by a group comprising a silicon atom, a C 3 -C 20 cycloalkyl group or a substituted C 6 -C 30 aromatic, hydroxy, thiol, aryl or aryloxy group, in particular substituted, an amino group or a C1-C4 aminoalkyl group;
    R 1 capable of being interrupted by a heteroatom such as O, S, NH, or a carbonyl group (CO), R 2 and R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z + x + y = 3, (b) one or more alkylalkoxysilanes of following formula (III), and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers: (R4) mSi (OR5) n (III) in which: R4 and R5 each represent, independently of one another, a C1-C6 alkyl group, better still C1-4, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl, n is from 1 to 3, m ranges from 1 to 3, to provided that m + n = 4, (c) water in an amount greater than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (d) one or more thickeners.
    This composition can be used in particular to shape and / or condition human hair. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.
    In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field, especially in the expressions "between" and "from ... to ...". The expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
    According to the invention, the process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, comprises the application of a composition comprising: (a) one or more alkoxysilanes with solubilizing function (s) of formula (I) ) as defined in the present application, and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers, (b) one or more alkylalkoxysilane (s) of formula (III) as defined in the present application, and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers, and (c) water in an amount greater than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    By the term "oligomer" used in the invention is meant the polymerization products of the compounds to which the term "oligomer" refers, having from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.
    In the present invention, the expression "alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) (a)" covers the alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) of the following formula (I): , and / or their hydrolysis product (s) and / or their oligomer (s):
    RiSi (OR2) z (R3) x (OH) y (I) in which:
    R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted by one or more groups chosen from the groups: amine NH 2 or NHR, R being an alkyl group; C 1 -C 20, preferably C 1 -C 6 optionally substituted with a group having a silicon atom, a C 3 -C 40 cycloalkyl group or a C 6 -C 30 aromatic, hydroxy, thiol, aryl or aryloxy group substituted by a amino group or with a C1-C4 aminoalkyl group;
    R 1 which may be interrupted by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (CO), R 2 and R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, y denotes an integer from 0 to 3, z denotes an integer from 0 to 3, and x denotes an integer from 0 to 2, with z + x + y = 3.
    More particularly, the alkoxysilanes with solubilizing function (s) (a) comprise at least one amino group in their structure.
    Preferably, R 1 is an acyclic chain.
    Preferably, R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted by an NH 2 or NHR amine group, R being a C 1 -C 20, preferably C 1 -C 6, alkyl or a C 3 cycloalkyl group. -C40 or a C6-C30 aromatic group, optionally substituted with a group comprising a silicon atom, better a (R20) 3Si group,
    Preferably, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably is the ethyl group.
    Preferably, R 3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
    Preferably the compound of formula (I) has only one or two silicon atoms in its structure.
    Preferably z varies from 1 to 3. Even more preferentially, z is equal to 3, and therefore x = y = 0.
    Preferably, the alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) (a) according to the invention are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) and (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3- (m-aminophenoxy) propyl-trimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethylaminomethyl) phenethyltrimethoxysilane, bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amine, oligomers, their hydrolysis products and a mixture of these compounds, more preferably from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amine, their oligomers, their hydrolysis products and a mixture of these compounds, and in particular the alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) (a) is or are selected from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysil (APTES), its hydrolysis products and oligomers and a mixture of these compounds.
    According to a preferred embodiment, the at least one alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) (a) are chosen from compounds of the following formula (II), and / or their oligomers and / or their products. hydrolysis: H 2 N (CH 2) n - Si (OR ') 3 (II) in which the R' groups, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups and n "is an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4.
    A particularly preferred solubilizing alkoxysilane (s) (a) according to this embodiment is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), and / or its hydrolysis products and / or oligomers.
    The at least one alkoxysilane with solubilizing function (s) (a) used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, and particularly from 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The second essential ingredient (b) of the composition is an alkylalkoxysilane of the following formula (III), and / or its hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers: (R4) mSi (OR5) - (III) in which: R4 and R5 are each, independently of one another, C1-C6 alkyl, better still C1-4, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl, of preferably methyl, ethyl and n-propyl, n is 1 to 3, m is 1 to 3, with the proviso that m + n = 4.
    Preferably, R5 is methyl, ethyl or n-propyl, n = 3 and m = 1.
    Preferably, the oligomers of the compounds of formula (III) are water-soluble. As examples of alkylalkoxysilanes (b) which are particularly preferred, mention may especially be made of methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), methyltripropoxysilane, their oligomers and / or their hydrolysis products.
    In the present invention, the term "alkylalkoxysilane (s) (b)" includes the alkylalkoxysilane (s) of formula (III), and / or their hydrolysis product (s) and / or their (s) Oligomer (s).
    The alkylalkoxysilane (s) (b) used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight. weight, and in particular from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    These two compounds (a) and (b) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a weight ratio (a) / (b) ranging from 0.5 to 10, more preferably from 1 to 10, better still 1 ,5 to 7.
    The composition according to the invention comprises, as the third essential ingredient, at least 30% by weight, better still at least 50% by weight, and even more preferably at least 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    More particularly, the amount of water varies from 30 to 99% by weight, better still from 50% by weight, or even 60% by weight to 99% by weight, better still from 62 to 99% by weight and even more preferably from 65 to 65% by weight. at 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The composition may also comprise one or more organic solvents liquid at 25 ° C, 1.01 × 10 5 Pa, in particular water-soluble, such as C 1 -C 7 alcohols, and in particular C 1 -C 7 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, polyols and ethers. of C3-C7 polyols, which can therefore be used alone or in admixture with water. Advantageously, the organic solvent may be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.
    The composition may also include one or more thickeners.
    By "thickening agent" is meant an agent which is introduced at 1% by weight in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30% of ethanol, and at pH = 7 or in an oil chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, the myristate of isopropyl or cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, makes it possible to reach a viscosity of at least 100 cps, preferably at least 500 cps, at 25 ° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s -1. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plane viscometer (Haake R600 Rheometer or the like).
    Preferably, the composition comprises one or more thickening polymers.
    The thickening polymers according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin.
    The thickening polymers may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic, associative or non-associative polymers.
    It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers capable of associating reversibly with each other or with other molecules.
    Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
    By "hydrophobic group" is meant a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical or polymer comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
    Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It can also denote a hydrocarbon polymer such as for example polybutadiene. Non-associative thickening polymers that may be mentioned include non-associative thickening polymers with sugar units.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" means a unit derived from a carbohydrate of formula C n (H 2 O) n-1 or (CH 2 O) n which may be optionally modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or dehydration.
    The sugar units that can be used in the composition of the thickening polymers of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
    Mention may in particular be made, as thickening polymers of the invention, of native gums such as: a) exudates from trees or shrubs, of which: gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); tragacanth gum (tragacanth) (galacturonic, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose acid polymer); (b) gums derived from algae, including: agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); (c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including: guar gum (mannose and galactose polymer); locust bean gum (mannose and galactose polymer); fenugreek gum (mannose and galactose polymer); tamarind gum (galactose, xylose and glucose polymer); konjac gum (glucose polymer and mannose); d) microbial gums including: xanthan gum (glucose polymer, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gum (partially acylated glucose polymer, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); (e) plant extracts including: cellulose (glucose polymer); starch (glucose polymer) and inulin.
    These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, mention may in particular be made of temperature. By way of chemical treatments, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to lead to polymers which may in particular be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.
    Preferably these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.
    The nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with (C 1 -C 6) poly (hydroxyl) -alkyl groups.
    Among the (poly) hydroxy (C 1 -C 6) alkyl groups, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups may be mentioned by way of example.
    These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and may for example be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum. modified by hydroxypropyl groups.
    The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
    Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP120 by Rhodia Chimie.
    The starch molecules used in the present invention may have as botanical origin cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from starches of maize, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and peas.
    The starches can be modified chemically or physically: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidification, heat treatments.
    Diamidon phosphates or diamidon phosphate-rich compounds such as the product proposed under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (hydroxypropylated gelatinized hydroxypropyl diamidon phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized manioc diamidon phosphate) are preferably used. PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated manioc diamidon phosphate) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA by NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized cornstarch).
    According to the invention, it is also possible to use amphoteric starches, these amphoteric starches comprise one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
    The starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch, such as in particular corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably from the potato.
    The non-associative thickening polymers of the invention may be cellulosic polymers having no C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.
    By "cellulosic" polymer is meant according to the invention any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues united by β-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
    Thus, the cellulosic polymers of the invention may be selected from unsubstituted celluloses including microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.
    Among these cellulosic polymers, there are cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.
    Among the cellulose esters, there are inorganic esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulphates or phosphates, etc.), cellulose organic esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates, etc.). and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetate and acetate sulphates and cellulose acetate propionates. Among the cellulose ether esters, mention may be made of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulphates.
    Among the nonionic cellulose ethers without C10-C30 fatty chain "non-associative", mention may be made of (C 1 -C 4) alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly) hydroxy (Ci-C4) alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR proposed by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly) hydroxy (C 1 -C 4) alkyl- (C 1 -C 4) alkyl celluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl methylcelluloses.
    Among the anionic cellulose ethers without fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly) carboxy (Ci-C 4) alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.
    Among the non-fatty chain cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as: (poly) hydroxy (Ci-C4) alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by the company National Starch.
    Among the non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units which may be used, mention may be made of crosslinked acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and their crosslinked copolymers of acrylamide, homopolymers of ammonium acrylate or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide alone or in mixtures.
    A first family of suitable non-associative thickening polymers is represented by crosslinked, optionally salified, acrylic acid homopolymers.
    Among the homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allylic alcohol ether of the sugar series, such as, for example, the products sold under the names CARBOPOLS 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company NOVEON or the products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by the company 3 VSA.
    The non-associative thickening polymers may also be crosslinked (meth) acrylic acid copolymers such as the polymer sold under the name AQUA SF1 by the company NOVEON.
    The non-associative thickening polymers may be chosen from cross-linked homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers and their salts.
    Among the crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulfonic acid and of acrylamide partially or totally neutralized, mention may be made in particular of the product described in Example 1 of EP 503 853 and it will be possible to refer to this document for these polymers.
    The composition may also comprise, as non-associative thickening polymers, homopolymers of ammonium acrylate or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide. As examples of homopolymers of ammonium acrylate, mention may be made of the product sold under the name MICROSAP PAS 5193 by the company HOECHST. Among the copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide, mention may be made of the product sold under the name BOZEPOL C NEW or the PAS 5193 product sold by HOECHST. In particular, documents FR 2 416 723, US 2798053 and US 2923692 may be referred to for the description and preparation of such compounds.
    Among the thickening polymers, mention may also be made of associative polymers well known to those skilled in the art and in particular of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.
    Among the associative polymers of the anionic type, mention may be made of: (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit consists of an anionic monomer; unsaturated ethylenic, more particularly by a vinyl carboxylic acid and more particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.
    Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of (meth) acrylates, are particularly preferred according to the invention. from lower alkyls, from 2 to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether, and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate; allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylenebisacrylamide.
    Among these, the crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10), in particular those sold by the company BASF under the names SALCARE, are particularly preferred. SC80® and SALCARE SC90® which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40/50/10). β) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
    Alkyl (C 10 -C 30) esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids useful in the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.
    Anionic polymers of this type are, for example, described and prepared according to US Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.
    Among this type of anionic associative polymers, use will more particularly be made of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate ( hydrophobic pattern), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.
    Among the above polymers, the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen Tri®, Pemulen® TR2® and Carbopol® 1382®, and even more preferentially Pemulen® Tri®, are particularly preferred according to the present invention. product sold by SEPPIC under the name COATEX SX®.
    It is also possible to mention the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP. (c) terpolymers of maleic anhydride / C30-C38 alpha-olefin / alkyl maleate such as the product (maleic anhydride copolymer / C3o-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608® by NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES. (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising: i) about 20% to 70% by weight of an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A], ii) about 20 to 80% by weight of an unsaturated monomer α, β-monoethylenic non-surfactant other than [A], iii) about 0.5 to 60% by weight of a nonionic mono-urethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate, such as those described in the patent application EP-A-0173109 and more particularly that described in Example 3, namely, a terpolymer methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate alcohol ethoxylated behenyl (40OE) in a 25% aqueous dispersion. (e) copolymers comprising among their monomers an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.
    Preferably, these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an ester of carboxylic acid with α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation and of C1-C4 alcohol. By way of example of this type of compound, mention may be made of ACULYN 22® and ACULYN 88® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which are terpolymers of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate which is oxyalkylenated, or still ACULYN 28® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS which is a terpolymer methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate oxyalkylenated.
    Mention may also be made of the products sold by Lubrizol under the tradenames CARBOPOL Ultrez 20 and CARBOPOL Ultrez 21 which are acrylic polymers (acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) and NOVETHIX L-10 which is a copolymer acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate. (f) Associative polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulphonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized and comprising at least one hydrophobic part. These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.
    The ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing sulphonic groups are chosen in particular from vinylsulphonic acid, styrenesulphonic acid, (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids, and (C 1 -C 22) alkyl (meth) acrylamido acids. (C1-C22) alkylsulfonic acids such as undecyl-acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid and their partially or completely neutralized forms.
    More preferably, the (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids, such as for example acetylamino-methanesulfonic acid, acetylamino-ethanesulfonic acid, acrylamido acid, are used. propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2 acid, 4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid and their partially or totally neutralized forms.
    More particularly, use 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or completely neutralized forms.
    The polymers of this family may in particular be chosen from AMPS random amphiphilic polymers modified by reaction with a n-monoalkylamine or a C6-C22 di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in the patent application WO 00 / 31154 (forming part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomers chosen, for example, from (meth) acrylic acids, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamides vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.
    The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation.
    These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not containing a fatty chain, such as (meth) acrylic acids, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures thereof.
    These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750899, patent US 5089578 and in the following Yotaro Morishima publications: "Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures" - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336. O "Miscellany formation of random copolymers of sodium 2- (acrylamido) -2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, Vol. 33, No. 10 (2000), 3694-3704 "; o 'Solution properties de miscelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: knows effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, Vol. 16, No. 12, (2000) 5324-5332; o "Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2- (acrylamido) -2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40 (2), (1999), 220-221.
    Among these polymers, mention may be made of: • crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C 8 -C 16) alkyl (meth) units acrylamide or (Cs-C16) alkyl (meth) acrylate units with respect to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A-750 899; Terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mol% of n- (C6-C18) alkylacrylamide units, such as those described. in US-5089578. All these anionic associative polymers can be salified.
    Mention may also be made of copolymers of completely neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate as well as copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide which are not crosslinked and crosslinked, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.
    Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of: (I) cationic associative polyurethanes; (ii) The compound marketed by NOVEON under the name AQUA CC and which corresponds to the INCI name POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER.
    POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER is the product of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising: a di (C 1 -C 4) alkyl (C 1 -C 4 alkyl) methacrylate, one or more alkyl esters thereof; C1-C30 and (meth) acrylic acid, o polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide unit), o polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether 30/5, o hydroxy (C2-C6) alkyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate. (III) quaternized (poly) hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals borne by the above-quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of C8-C30 fatty chain quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses, such as QUATRISOFT LM 200®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A®, and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-B® ( C 1-4 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8® (C 1-8 alkyl) sold by AQUALON, CRODACEL QM®, CRODACEL QL® (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS® (C 1-4 alkyl) sold by the company CRODA and the product SOFTCAT SL 100® sold by the company AQUALON. - (IV) cationic polyvinyllactam polymers.
    Such polymers are for example described in patent application WO-OO / 68282.
    As poly (vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, particularly using the vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate, the terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate cocoyldiméthyl-méthacrylamidopropylammonium, the vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate or chloride lauryldiméthylméthacrylamido -propylammonium.
    The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mole% of monomer having a fatty chain, and preferably 1.5 to 15 mole% and more particularly 1.5 to 6 mole%, based on the number, are preferred. total moles of monomers.
    Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are for example described and prepared in the patent application WO 9844012.
    Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, acrylic acid / (meth) acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymers are preferred.
    The nonionic associative polymers that may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from: (a) copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and of hydrophobic fatty-chain monomers, examples of which may be mentioned: ANTARON V216® products or GANEX V216® (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company ES P. - ANTARON V220® or GANEX V220® products (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by the company ISP (b) copolymers of methacrylates or of C 1 -C 6 alkyl acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208® name. (c) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer. (d) polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain, both hydrophilic sequences of mostly polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences. (e) polymers having an aminoplast ether skeleton having at least one fatty chain, such as the PURE THIX® compounds proposed by SUD-CHEMIE. - (f) celluloses or their derivatives, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyls, arylalkyls, alkylaryls or mixtures thereof wherein the alkyl groups are in Cs- and in particular:
    nonionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the products NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS and POLYSURF 67 (C 1-6 alkyl) sold by AQUALON * nonoxynylhydroxyethylcellulose nonionic such as the AMERCELL HM-1500 product sold by the company Amerchol; nonionic alkylcelluloses such as the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL; (g) associative guar derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guars modified with a fatty chain, such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified with a C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified with a C14 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified with a C20 alkyl chain) sold by RHODIA CHIMIE.
    Preferably, the polyether polyurethanes comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
    The polyether polyurethanes may be multiblocked, in particular in the form of a triblock. The hydrophobic sequences may be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These same polymers may also be graft or star.
    The nonionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain containing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.
    By extension are also included among the nonionic polyurethane fatty chain polyethers those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic blocks by other chemical bonds. As examples of fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, it is also possible to use also the urea-functional Rheolate 205® sold by Rheox or the Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®.
    Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T210® with a C12-14 alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212® with a Cib alkyl chain from AKZO.
    The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS C20 alkyl chain and urethane bond, proposed at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.
    It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278 and RHEOLATE® 244 sold by RHEOX. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and the DW 1206J proposed by the company ROHM & HAAS.
    The polyether polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380, 389 (1993).
    More particularly still it is preferred to use a polyether polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) alcohol stearyl or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
    Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names ACULYN 46® and ACULYN 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) ( SMDI), 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a propylene glycol mixture ( 39%) and water (26%)].
    Preferably, the thickening agents are nonionic, cationic or amphoteric thickening polymers.
    According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more thickening polymers chosen from polysaccharides, and preferably from cellulosic polymers.
    The pH of the composition is preferably between 3 and 11, especially between 4 and 10.
    The pH of these compositions can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalinizing agents or acidifying agents usually used. Among the alkalinizing agents that may be mentioned, for example, are ammonia, alkanolamines or mineral or organic hydroxides. Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
    In a preferred variant of the invention, the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid, preferably a hydroxy acid and even more preferably lactic acid, to ensure on the one hand the stability in pH and a satisfactory level of hydrolysis before mixed.
    The composition according to the invention may furthermore contain additives normally used in cosmetics, such as thickening agents, preserving agents, perfumes and dyes, as well as most of the usual cosmetic agents for hair treatments.
    These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additives and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
    The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the following process: two phases are prepared separately, each comprising at least one alkoxysilane (a) or at least one alkylalkoxysilane (b). The pH of each of the phases is then adjusted before joining them. The two aqueous phases are stored for a period of between 10 minutes and two hours and then combined in such a way that the weight ratio (a) / (b) varies from 0.5 to 10.
    In other variants of the invention, the composition according to the invention may be composed of several superimposed or emulsified liquid phases, or may contain suspended solid phases.
    Texture agents such as thickening agents, and / or additives customary in cosmetics, preserving agents, perfumes and dyes, as well as most of the usual cosmetic agents for hair treatments such as silicones and cationic polymers, may be added to at least one of the aqueous phases before mixing or after mixing. In the case where it will be added to one of the aqueous phases before mixing, this addition will preferably be made in that which will represent the greater part of the final composition.
    The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a lotion, a gel, a cream, a paste, a serum or a mousse. The use of the composition can be done on wet or dry hair, in rinsed or not rinsed mode. The subject of the invention is also the use of the composition as defined above for shaping and / or conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers, and better hair.
    The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, more particularly to shaping and / or conditioning the hair, which consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition as described above and possibly rinsing. Preferably, the composition is non-rinsed. The invention is illustrated by the following examples.
    Examples
    Compositions according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. All the percentages are by weight and the indicated amounts are expressed in% by weight of product in the state relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The general method of preparation of the above compositions is as follows: at room temperature, the methyl triethoxysilane is added to half of the water used for the composition, then a portion of the pH agent (lactic or hydrochloric acid) ) to achieve pH 3. Separately, the aminopropyltriethoxysilane was mixed with the remaining water useful to the composition and the complement of pH agent.
    After obtaining a first homogeneous mixture, the two solutions were combined and the other ingredients were added.
    Natural locks of wet hair were treated with Formulas 1-37.
    In particular, Formula 20 was applied at a rate of 150 mg per gram of hair over the entire length of the wick. After drying, the strand of hair was arranged horizontally, blocked by a jaw at the level of the attachment of the hair and was observed the angle it formed with the horizontal, as well as the maintenance of this angle after a series of mechanical stresses (crushing of the wick in a flat pliers, which is drawn over the entire length). A level of fixation equivalent to that of a fixing gel based on conventional polymers of the acrylate polymer / C10-crosslinked alkyl acrylate, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer and vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer types was obtained. .
    In addition, the wick thus treated with the formula 20 is more resistant to mechanical stress: it withstands 8 passes of the flat grippers. On the other hand, a wick treated with the fixing gel above which makes it possible to obtain the same level of fixation, breaks after two passages.
    In addition, the locks treated with Formula 20 remained soft to the touch, and there was no evidence of residue formation.
    Other locks of damp hair were then treated with formulation 17 in the same manner as above and compared to a reference formula used for resistance of hairstyles to moisture based on behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyl alcohol. , amodimethicone, trideceth-6 and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dimethicone, laureth-4 and laureth-23 and PPG-5-ceteth-20.
    The moisture resistance of the locks was then evaluated after drying with a hair dryer. Eight treated formula 17 locks were placed in a humidity controlled chamber (80%) for 24 hours at 25 ° C. The eight locks thus treated remain non-sticky and recover little volume in comparison with eight other locks treated with the reference formula (respectively 56% against 71% expressed in effective area by the analysis of photographs of wicks: surface bounded by the outline of the wick).
    The compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 are not stable and could not be evaluated.
    The compositions of Comparative Examples 3 and 4 are tacky and do not provide sufficient fixation performance.
    In addition, discolored wicks, treated with compositions 17 or 20, were then washed, and then dried, with a commercial shampoo based on sodium lauryl ether sulfate and cocobetaine. They were then rinsed and it was found that the disentangling was much easier than for untreated locks or treated with conventional styling compositions.
    权利要求:
    Claims (13)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    A method for treating keratin fibers, especially hair, preferably shaping and / or conditioning hair, which comprises applying a composition comprising: (a) one or more functional alkoxysilanes; solubilizing agent (s) of the following formula (I), and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers: RiSi (OR2) z (R3) x (OH) y (I) in which: Ri is a hydrocarbon chain in C 1 -C 6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic substituted with one or more groups chosen from the groups: amine NH 2 or NHR, R being a C 1 -C 20 alkyl group, preferably C1-C6 optionally substituted by a group comprising a silicon atom, a C3-C40 cycloalkyl group or a substituted C6-C3o, -hydroxy, thiol, aryl or aryloxy aromatic group, in particular substituted by a amino group or with a C1-C4 aminoalkyl group; R 1 capable of being interrupted by a heteroatom such as O, S, NH, or a carbonyl group (CO), R 2 and R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z + x + y = 3, (b) one or more alkylalkoxysilanes of following formula (III), and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers: (R4) mSi (OR5) n (III) in which: R4 and R5 each represent, independently of one another, a C 1-6 alkyl group, better still C 1-4, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl, n is from 1 to 3, m ranges from 1 to 3, provided that m + n = 4, and (c) water in an amount greater than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that R1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted by an NH 2 or NHR amine group, R being a C 1 -C 20 alkyl group, preferably C 1 -C 6, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkyl or C 6 -C 30 aromatic group, optionally substituted by a group having a silicon atom, more preferably a group (RiO 2 Si),
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) alkoxysilane (s) solubilizing function (s) (s) is or are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), the 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amine, their oligomers, their hydrolysis products and a mixture of these compounds.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) (a) is or are chosen from those of formula (II), and or their oligomers and / or their hydrolysis products: H 2 N (CH 2) n .- Si (OR ') 3 (II) in which the R' groups, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched alkyl groups; in C 1 -C 6 and n "is an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) (a) is or are present in an amount ranging from 0, 5% to 50% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, and in particular 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in formula (III), R5 represents a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, n = 3 and m = 1.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) alkylalkoxysilane (s) (b) is or are chosen from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), methyltripropyloxysilane, their oligomers and their hydrolysis products.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) alkylalkoxysilane (s) (b) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 15% by weight, and in particular from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compounds (a) and (b) are present in a weight ratio (a) / (b) ranging from 1 to 10, more preferably 1.5 at 10, better from 1.5 to 7.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water is present in an amount ranging from 30 to 99% by weight, preferably from 50 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Composition comprising: (a) one or more alkoxysilanes with solubilizing function (s) of the following formula (I), and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers: RiSi (OR2) z (R3) x (OH) y (I) in which: R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted by one or more groups chosen from the groups: amine NH 2 or NHR, R being a C 1 -C 20 alkyl, preferably C 1 -C 6 alkyl optionally substituted with a group having a silicon atom, a C 3 -C 40 cycloalkyl group or a C 6 -C 30 aromatic group, - hydroxy substituted or unsubstituted aryl or aryloxy, in particular substituted by an amino group or by a C1-C4 aminoalkyl group; R 1 capable of being interrupted by a heteroatom such as O, S, NH, or a carbonyl group (CO), R 2 and R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z + x + y = 3, (b) one or more alkylalkoxysilanes of following formula (III), and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers: (R4) mSi (OR5) n (III) in which: R-4 and R5 each represent, independently of one another a C1-C6 alkyl group, better still C1-4, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl, n is from 1 to 3, m ranges from 1 to 3; provided that m + n = 4, (c) water in an amount greater than 30% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, and (d) one or more thickeners.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Use of the composition according to the preceding claim, for the shaping and / or conditioning of the hair.
    类似技术:
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    EP1291001A2|2003-03-12|Cosmetic compositions containing a copolymer of methacrylic acid and an oil and uses thereof
    FR2822680A1|2002-10-04|DETERGENT COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING ANIONIC SURFACE DERIVED FROM AMINO ACIDS AND A SOLUBLE CONDITIONER AND USES THEREOF
    FR2863879A1|2005-06-24|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING CATIONIC AGENT, SEMI-CRYSTALLINE POLYMER AND OIL AND METHOD OF COSMETIC TREATMENT
    FR3009680A1|2015-02-20|COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SILANE, A PARTICULAR FIXING POLYMER AND A CELLULOSIC THICKENING POLYMER
    EP2413880B1|2015-05-06|Capillary composition for treating hair
    EP2149365B1|2016-01-27|Cosmetic composition comprising a copolymer of vinylformamid/vinylformamine and a thickening polymer
    FR2924339A1|2009-06-05|Styling composition, useful for reshaping keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprises |acrylic copolymers comprising e.g. butyl |acrylate monomer units and hydroxyalkyl |acrylate monomer units, and thickening polymers
    WO2010112682A1|2010-10-07|Capillary composition for treating hair
    EP2039345A1|2009-03-25|Cosmetic compositions containing a cationic copolymer and a particular triglyceride and uses thereof
    WO2010076490A2|2010-07-08|Cosmetic composition containing a polyamine having diazirine groups, and use thereof for photo-grafting a non-saccharide polymer other than polyamine polymers
    FR2934153A1|2010-01-29|Cosmetic composition, useful for treating keratin materials, and as optionally rinsed after shampoo hair conditioner, comprises cationic surfactant having quaternary ammonium salt structure, polyol and non-silicone polymer thickener
    WO2010029267A1|2010-03-18|Cosmetic composition containing quaternary ammonium esters and thickening polymers, and use for hair conditioning
    FR3104978A1|2021-06-25|Process for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers comprising the application of a ready-to-use composition obtained by mixing two compositions
    FR3104030A1|2021-06-11|Hair treatment process comprising the application of a cosmetic care composition comprising a cationic polymer and an organosilane, then a washing cosmetic composition
    EP1772137A1|2007-04-11|Cosmetic composition containing a cationic conditioning agent and a non-aqueous polymeric dispersion
    FR3083098A1|2020-01-03|KERATIN FIBER LOOPING PROCESS COMPRISING THE APPLICATION TO THE FIBERS OF A COMPOSITION CONTAINING THIOLACTIC ACID
    FR3015271A1|2015-06-26|COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR ACRYLIC COPOLYMER AND A THICKENING POLYMER
    FR3089807A1|2020-06-19|Composition and process for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers
    FR3092248A1|2020-08-07|Cosmetic composition comprising anti-hair loss agents, thickening polymers and anionic polysaccharides, and method of treatment
    FR3076730A1|2019-07-19|Cosmetic agent for the temporary shaping of keratinous fibers comprising a film-forming agent
    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    FR3044902B1|2019-05-31|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    EP0159628A2|1984-04-12|1985-10-30|Revlon, Inc.|Hair stengthening and permanent waving composition|
    EP1736139A1|2004-04-07|2006-12-27|Kao Corporation|Hair-treating agent and methods of treating hair|
    FR2937248A1|2008-10-20|2010-04-23|Microcapsules Technologies|MICROCAPSULES HAVING AN ENVELOPE COMPRISING ESSENTIALLY HOMOPOLYMERS OR SILSESQUIOXANE COPOLYMERS|
    FR2964869A1|2010-09-20|2012-03-23|Oreal|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ALKYLALCOXYSILANE|
    FR2966356A1|2010-10-26|2012-04-27|Oreal|Cosmetic composition, useful for the cosmetic treatment of hair and as shampoo to facilitate disentangling of the hair, comprises alkoxysilane compounds having one or more fatty chain and other alkoxysilanes|
    WO2013083760A2|2011-12-07|2013-06-13|Givaudan Sa|Process|FR3068888A1|2017-07-17|2019-01-18|L'oreal|COMPOSITION COMPRISING A FIXING POLYMER, A CATIONIC POLYMER, AN ORGANOSILANE AND A MICRODISPERSION WAX|
    FR3068887A1|2017-07-17|2019-01-18|L'oreal|COMPOSITION COMPRISING A FIXING POLYMER, A CATIONIC POLYMER, AN ORGANOSILANE, A NONIONIC POLYSACCHARIDE AND A WAX|
    FR3081102A1|2018-05-15|2019-11-22|L'oreal|HAIR COLORING PROCESS USING DIRECT ANIONIC COLORANTS AND AT LEAST TWO DIFFERENT ORGANOSILANES|
    FR3099990A1|2019-08-22|2021-02-26|L'oreal|Process for treating keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least one alkoxysilane of formula , at least one alkoxysilane of formula , at least one silicone containing an epoxy function, and optionally pigments and / or direct dyes|
    法律状态:
    2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2017-06-16| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20170616 |
    2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    2021-11-09| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1562328|2015-12-14|
    FR1562328A|FR3044902B1|2015-12-14|2015-12-14|PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS USING AN AQUEOUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ASSOCIATION OF PARTICULAR ALCOXYSILANES|FR1562328A| FR3044902B1|2015-12-14|2015-12-14|PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS USING AN AQUEOUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ASSOCIATION OF PARTICULAR ALCOXYSILANES|
    US16/061,796| US20180369107A1|2015-12-14|2016-12-14|Process for treating keratin fibres using an aqueous composition comprising a combination of particular alkoxysilanes|
    EP16810382.8A| EP3389618B1|2015-12-14|2016-12-14|Process for treating keratin fibres using an aqueous composition comprising a combination of particular alkoxysilanes|
    PCT/EP2016/081024| WO2017102856A1|2015-12-14|2016-12-14|Process for treating keratin fibres using an aqueous composition comprising a combination of particular alkoxysilanes|
    ES16810382T| ES2866275T3|2015-12-14|2016-12-14|Procedure for treating keratin fibers using an aqueous composition comprising a combination of particular alkoxysilanes|
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